What is Deadstock Fabric? Is it Really Sustainable?

As environmental concerns grow in the fashion and textile industries, many brands are searching for more sustainable alternatives to traditional fabrics. This is where deadstock fabric comes in. However, deadstock or leftover fabric may not be the quick fix to the bigger waste problem we are facing now. Some might wonder, if unused fabric is just going to be thrown away, shouldn't using it up be the best option? So why do we question whether it's really sustainable?
 

We'll explain everything in this article including what deadstock fabric is, the different types available, and ultimately addressing the big question—should you even use deadstock fabric? Are there other sustainable alternatives? Let’s learn more!

Read more: Sustainable Fabrics: How Eco-Friendly Are They Really?
 

What is deadstock fabric?

Deadstock fabric is simply unused textile material left over from fashion houses or manufacturers. It’s never used typically due to overproduction, canceled orders, or minor defects that didn't meet the buyer's standards. And it's often repurposed to reduce waste.
 

Deadstock meaning

Deadstock usually means items, especially in fashion or retail, that haven't been sold and are left over from past seasons or collections. These items are brand new and have never been used. Deadstock is also known as “overstock”, “surplus fabric”, and “remnant”.
 

Types of deadstock fabrics

Deadstock fabrics typically fall into two categories: fabric mill production surplus and deadstock designer fabrics.
 

1. Fabric mill production surplus

Deadstock fabric, also known as fabric mill production surplus, can come from a few different scenarios. Sometimes, the fabric has minor printing or dyeing defects. These flaws don’t affect how the fabric functions, but they might not meet a buyer’s exact standards, so they get rejected. Other times, customers cancel orders after production is already underway, leaving mills with extra fabric that was made specifically for those orders. Plus, mills often produce a little more fabric than needed to make sure they meet order requirements and cover any potential mistakes. Any leftover fabric after the order is filled is considered surplus.
 

2. Deadstock designer fabrics

Deadstock designer fabrics are materials that fashion brands have purchased but never ended up using in production for a couple of reasons. Sometimes, brands order more fabric than they actually need, which leaves them with extra material at the end of a season. Other times, the design process changes course, and certain garments or designs get dropped after the fabric has already been ordered, leaving behind unused fabric.

 

Is deadstock fabric sustainable?

Unfortunately, there's no simple yes or no answer to whether using deadstock is sustainable. Some critics argue that deadstock fabrics aren't completely sustainable for two main reasons:
 

1. While using deadstock does help keep waste out of landfills, processing it often consumes a lot of energy and resources.

2. While it can be a more sustainable option, it might also encourage mills to overproduce, knowing that the excess will still be sold.

However, compared to new, virgin materials, deadstock fabric is generally more eco-friendly. It still signals a shift toward sustainability in the market, encouraging businesses and mills to adopt better practices. To help you understand better, below are the pros and cons of deadstock fabric:

Pros

• Reduces waste

One of the biggest advantages of using deadstock fabric is its ability to cut down on waste. By repurposing materials that would otherwise end up in landfills, deadstock helps lessen the environmental impact of textile waste. 

• Unique materials

Deadstock fabric provides a wealth of unique and one-of-a-kind materials. These exclusive textures, patterns, and colors can set a brand’s products apart from others, offering distinctiveness that’s hard to replicate.

• No additional resources needed

Since deadstock fabric has already been produced, using it doesn't consume more water, energy, or raw materials. This significantly reduces its environmental footprint compared to producing new fabrics.

• No minimum order quantity (MOQ)

Deadstock fabrics are typically available in limited quantities and are not subject to MOQs that fabric mills often impose. This flexibility is ideal for smaller brands that cannot afford to purchase large quantities of fabric upfront.

 

Cons

• Transparency issues

One major concern with deadstock fabric is that it's often hard to know where it came from or how it was made. This lack of clarity makes it difficult to verify if the fabric was produced ethically or sustainably.

• Limited availability

Deadstock fabric is leftover or surplus material, which means there's only a limited amount available. This can make it tough for designers who need large quantities of consistent fabric for bigger production runs. 

• Potential high costs

In some cases, because of the transparency issues, shoppers might end up paying double for a “zero waste” design made from fabric that's half as good as it should be. It could lead to the item ending up in a landfill sooner rather than later. 

• Variety and quality

The range of designs, colors, and types of deadstock fabric can be limited. Not all deadstock is created through sustainable practices, and some may even require a lot of energy and resources to repurpose, which can reduce the overall sustainability benefits.
 

Greenwashing

Greenwashing is when a company misleadingly promotes its products, services, or overall brand as environmentally friendly or sustainable, even if that's not entirely true. This can happen through misleading labels, exaggerated claims, or by highlighting one eco-friendly feature while ignoring greater environmental damage caused by the product. The term "greenwashing" mixes "green," suggesting eco-friendly practices, with "whitewashing," which means hiding flaws.

 

Companies often engage in greenwashing to tap into the growing demand for environmentally responsible products, despite not fully committing to sustainable practices. This misleading tactic can confuse consumers who are trying to make environmentally conscious choices, ultimately damaging trust in truly green products and efforts. 

 

Is deadstock fabric a way of greenwashing?

Generally, we don’t think it is. However, there are some companies that would only attribute the use of deadstock as their leading sustainability initiative. If that’s true, chances are there’s a bit of greenwashing going on—whether it’s intentional or not. To avoid falling for greenwashing, we recommend consumers carefully check environmental claims and look for evidence that backs up a company’s sustainability claims.

 

Should you use deadstock fabrics?

The limited availability of these fabrics often translates to unique, one-of-a-kind designs, which can help distinguish a brand in a competitive market. However, it’s essential to consider some challenges associated with using deadstock fabrics. The limited quantities mean that it might be difficult to source the same fabric consistently for larger or ongoing production runs. 
 

We don't think deadstock is perfect—far from it. However, it does help reduce the use of new materials. We're proud to offer deadstock as much as we can and we're committed to discussing it honestly and openly in these important conversations.
 

Limitations of using deadstock fabrics

While deadstock fabrics offer many benefits, there are significant limitations to consider that can impact their practicality for certain brands and projects.
 

1. Limited availability

One of the big challenges with using deadstock fabrics is that the supply is limited. Once a specific fabric runs out, you can't just order more, which can make it tough to keep product lines consistent or scale up production. To work around this, brands need to be smart about how they use deadstock fabrics.
 

One solution is for brands to work with multiple suppliers to get a wider variety and ensure a steadier supply of deadstock fabrics. Another strategy is to use these fabrics for limited-edition collections or seasonal items. This turns the scarcity of the fabric into an advantage by making these products more exclusive.
 

2. Quality assurance

Working with deadstock fabrics can be a bit challenging because their quality can vary depending on where they come from. These inconsistencies can impact the final product, so it's important to have strict quality checks in place. To manage this, start by setting clear quality standards for your products and stick to them—don't compromise by using fabrics that don't meet these criteria. It's also essential to choose reputable suppliers who can give you detailed information about the fabrics they offer, so you know exactly what you're working with. And before you dive into production, make sure to thoroughly test the deadstock fabrics to ensure they meet your quality standards.

 

Why can’t deadstock fabric fix the waste problem?

While using deadstock or leftover fabric can play a role in reducing waste within the fashion industry, it may not be the ultimate solution to the broader waste problem for several reasons:
 

1. Band-Aid Solution

Relying on deadstock fabric primarily addresses the symptom—excess material—rather than the root cause of overproduction in the fashion industry. It doesn’t necessarily encourage manufacturers to produce less or adopt more sustainable production methods upfront.
 

2. Limited Impact

The amount of deadstock fabric available can vary and may not be sufficient to meet the demands of larger manufacturers or to significantly offset new textile production on a global scale. 
 

3. Lack of Scale

The use of deadstock fabrics is often more feasible for smaller brands or limited edition runs due to the inconsistent availability and quantities of such materials. This makes it challenging to apply as a widespread solution across the entire industry.
 

4. Quality and Continuity Issues

Deadstock fabrics may come with imperfections, or may not be available in sufficient quantities to allow for consistent production lines. This can lead to challenges in quality control and design continuity for fashion brands.

 

5. Incomplete Sustainability

While using deadstock reduces textile waste, it doesn’t always address other environmental impacts associated with fabric production, such as the use of water, dyes, and finishes that may be environmentally harmful.

 

6. Diverts Focus from Reduction

By providing an outlet for surplus fabrics, the option of using deadstock could potentially allow manufacturers to feel justified in continuing overproduction practices without making substantial changes towards more sustainable production volumes.

 

While deadstock fabric can contribute to sustainability efforts by reducing landfill waste, it's important for the fashion industry to also focus on systemic changes that prevent overproduction and promote comprehensive sustainable practices from the outset.

 

What is Available Stock Fabric?

Available stock fabric is the material that fabric manufacturers regularly produce and keep on hand. Unlike deadstock, these fabrics are mass-produced and readily available, often used for standard items like t-shirts. While they offer reliability and consistency, they do not address the same sustainability concerns as deadstock fabrics.
 

Brands that Use Deadstock Fabrics

The truth is, too much new material is produced when there’s already more than enough available. But until our production and recycling systems get better, you can always choose to use what you already have, go for second-handed items, buy high-quality products from ethical brands that use lower-impact materials, whether recycled or not, and recycle your clothes at the right place.
 

Several brands are pioneering the use of deadstock fabrics, setting an example in the fashion industry for sustainable and eco-friendly practices.

 

• Christy Dawn
  Christy Dawn is an eco-friendly fashion brand committed to sustainability and environmental regeneration. It sources high-quality deadstock fabrics to create beautiful, timeless dresses, reducing waste in the textile industry. Its pieces are classic, with a touch of vintage charm.
   

• Reformation
  Known for its commitment to sustainability, Reformation often uses deadstock fabrics in its trendy, eco-friendly collections. By repurposing surplus materials, Reformation lessens its environmental footprint and sets a standard for stylish, sustainable fashion.
   

• Dorsu
  A Cambodian fashion brand, Dorsu focuses on creating wardrobe essentials from comfortable deadstock cotton jerseys sourced from local factories. They produce seasonless, versatile pieces that support local economies and reduce waste.
   

• The R Collective
  This brand aims to eliminate waste in the fashion industry by creating garments from high-end, luxury deadstock fabrics. They also recycle unusable fabrics back into original fibers, ensuring no material goes to waste.
   

• Tonlé
  Committed to a zero-waste production system, Tonlé produces clothing, accessories, and home items from deadstock fabrics and offcuts. They use cutting layouts that eliminate fabric waste, turning small or unusable pieces into new, unique fabrics. Their designs are versatile, timeless, and sustainable.
   

Are there other sustainable alternatives?

Yes, there are three sustainable fabrics you should know about: marine debris fabric, coffee fiber fabric, recycled bottle fabric, and shell fabric.

Read more: What is Recycled Fabric? 4 Common Types of Recycled Fabric and The Most Innovative Ones
 

1. Recycled fabrics Made from Fishing Nets

To protect valuable marine resources and reduce the impact of ocean waste on ecosystems, Taiwan's Formosa Plastics has teamed up with the world's second-largest fishing net manufacturer, Kim Chou, to establish a recycling channel.
 

The Fiber Division of Formosa Plastics develops various functional products based on environmentally friendly fibers, such as antibacterial, cooling, and heat-generating types. According to Formosa Plastics, nylon recycled from marine sources saves 15% more energy and reduces carbon emissions by 49% compared to freshly produced caprolactam from petrochemical refining. And the quality of these recycled fishing net products is comparable to fresh raw materials.  
 

2. Coffee Charcoal Fabrics- S.Café Yarn

We often use coffee grounds in ashtrays to eliminate smoke odors and extinguish cigarette butts. However, these coffee grounds, a green material, can also be applied to textiles. By heating them to over 1,000°C in a process called calcination, we can create crystalline phases and pore structures.

The coffee-carbon-based PET fiber can be used for deodorizing and air drying, giving the fabrics a cool and comfortable effect. According to S.Café Yarn, it dries 200% faster than cotton and 50% faster than other functional polyester fabrics. The fiber also has a better heating effect, and its UV protection is 500% stronger than cotton because the UV rays are deflected by millions of pores in the coffee grounds embedded in the fiber. And of course, by focusing on recycling and reusing coffee grounds, the fiber can reduce carbon emissions and lessen the environmental impact.
 

Carbon Footprint (Energy consumption and emissions of CO)

1. Coffee carbon is less than bamboo charcoal by 48%

2. Coffee carbon is less than coconut charcoal by 85%
    

Deodorizing

Coffee carbon works just as well as bamboo charcoal for deodorizing, but it's more environmentally friendly.
 

3. Recycled Bottle Fabrics- SAYA fabrics

If you're interested in recycled bottle fabrics, we recommend checking out SAYA. They specialize in producing high-quality fabrics made from recycled bottles and overstock fabric. Here are two popular types of fabrics from SAYA:

 

1. RSCUW project
RSCUW Fibers consist of 4 types of recycled components: garment offcuts, deadstock and overstock fabric, waste yarn, and recycled PET bottles. Unlike other recycled fabrics, RSCUW Fibers don’t require decolorization, preserving the original color of the fibers and making it a great example of energy-saving and carbon-reducing innovation.
 

2. Bottle to fiber
SAYA takes single-use, low-value, high-volume plastic bottles and transforms them into durable, functional fibers. Each year, they recycle over 100,000 tons of plastic bottles (equivalent to 8 billion bottles) and upcycle them into performance fibers that are not only durable and functional but also recyclable.

Read more: What is Recycled Polyester? Is It Really Sustainable?

 

4. Shell fabrics

Oyster shells are composed of about 95% calcium carbonate. In the past, discarded oyster shells were mainly ground into powder for use as fertilizer or burned for low-value applications like wall repair. However, over a decade ago, some companies began recycling oyster shells for use in construction, packaging materials, and as excipients in pharmaceuticals. As the global pressure for net-zero carbon emissions grows, the textile industry has also been actively developing eco-friendly materials. Research has found that oyster shells have various functional applications, such as:
 

1. Plastic Shoe Soles: Oyster shells can be used to make plastic shoe soles, reducing the use of petroleum-based plastics.

2. Biodegradable Composite Materials: When combined with cellulose, oyster shells can create biodegradable composite materials for non-woven fabrics, which can be used as eco-friendly mask materials.

3. Seawool Yarn: By nanonizing oyster shell powder and combining it with recycled PET bottles, a chemical-free yarn material called "Seawool'' can be produced.
 

How Can Shell Fabrics Improve Both Society and The Environment?

Taiwan produces about 200,000 tons of oysters annually, generating approximately 160,000 tons of waste oyster shells each year. Around 22,000 tons are not properly disposed of. For the past 50 years, these discarded shells not only take up space but also attract mosquitoes and flies due to the residual meat on them, producing a foul odor under the hot sun and causing environmental pollution. The issue of oyster shell waste has been one of Taiwan's top ten social concerns. Now, with the development of oyster shell recycling technology, the environmental impact of oyster shells can be reduced, creating new business opportunities for oyster farmers.
 

Where to Find Oyster Shell Fiber?

Currently, several Taiwanese companies are actively researching and developing oyster shell fibers with notable success. Here are a few manufacturers producing textiles from oyster shells:
 

1. Creative Tech Textile
This company uses oyster shells to make Seawool yarn and introduced the "Oyster Tech Antibacterial Insulating Cotton" in 2018, which is ten times cheaper and lighter than down. Additionally, due to the natural antibacterial and deodorizing properties of calcium carbonate, they have also developed a range of deodorizing functional socks. Singtex is also exploring the use of oyster shells as a substitute for wool products, attempting to develop wool-like fabrics.

2. Shun Yuan Sportswear
This company produces Seawool products made from recycled PET bottles and discarded oyster shells, offering a wool-like texture.
 

3. Lea Lea Group
They produce Oceaya® "Ocean Energy Yarn" from waste oyster shells, which has deodorizing, antibacterial, and anti-static properties. Low-static fabrics are suitable for dry climates in Europe and America and are currently used to produce blankets for airplanes.
 

4. DYCTEAM
A Taiwanese designer brand that creates garments from discarded oyster shells, offering breathable and UV-resistant properties.
 

5. Taiwan Sugar Corporation
They produce functional fabrics like wetsuits from recycled oyster shells and also use them for various other applications, including fertilizers.

 

Need help finding the right supplier for the right fabrics? Contact us!
 

Finding Reliable Suppliers

Working with reliable suppliers is essential for ensuring the sustainability and quality of deadstock fabrics. Here’s how you can identify and work effectively with trustworthy suppliers:
 

1. Check for Industry Certifications

Look for suppliers who hold certifications like the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) or OEKO-TEX. These certifications show that the fabrics meet high environmental and social standards and are free from harmful substances.
 

2. Request Transparency

A trustworthy supplier should be open about their sourcing and production processes. Ask for detailed information and documentation on how they acquire their deadstock fabrics, including details about the original producers and any relevant certifications.
 

3. Build Strong Relationships

Developing good relationships with your suppliers can lead to ongoing transparency and dependability. If possible, communicate regularly and visit their facilities to better understand their operations and commitment to sustainability. Long-term partnerships might also secure better terms and access to high-quality deadstock fabrics.
 

4. Seek Recommendations and Network

Tap into the sustainable fashion community for supplier recommendations. Networking with other brands and designers who use deadstock fabrics can steer you towards reputable suppliers and away from those with questionable practices. Attending industry trade shows and events is also a great way to meet suppliers and learn more about their sourcing practices.

 

Final thoughts

Deadstock is a symptom of a much deeper-rooted problem in fashion. In an ideal world, there should not be any deadstock material, and there should be more value placed on the material. The reality is too much virgin material is produced when there is already more than enough in the world, but until our production and recycling systems improve, deadstock fabric remains an intriguing option. 
 

Yu-City is a Taiwanese textile manufacturer specializing in sustainable and non-toxic fabrics that meet safety and fire standards. We provide consulting to help you select the ideal fabrics and design solutions tailored to your needs. Feel free to contact us anytime! We are always here to help.

 

FAQs

1. What are the benefits of deadstock fabric? 

Deadstock fabric helps reduce waste, is cost-effective, and offers unique, high-quality materials without additional resource consumption.
 

2. Is deadstock fabric cheaper? 

Often, deadstock fabric is cheaper than newly produced fabric, as it is surplus material that needs to be sold off.
 

3. What is another word for deadstock? 

Deadstock can also be referred to as surplus fabric or excess inventory. It is also known as “overstock”, “surplus fabric”, and “remnant”.
 

4. What do companies do with leftover fabric? 

Companies may repurpose leftover fabric into new products, donate it, or sell it as deadstock to other designers and manufacturers.
 

5. How many years does it take for fabric to decompose? 

The decomposition time varies by fabric type. Natural fibers like cotton can decompose in a few months to a year, while synthetic fibers like polyester can take hundreds of years.
 

6. What is the difference between deadstock and vintage fabric? 

Deadstock fabric is unused excess material from recent production, while vintage fabric is older, often pre-owned material with historical value.