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What is recycled polyester?
Recycled polyester, or rPET, is a human-made synthetic material, composed of a common type of plastic called polyethylene terephthalate. It’s made by bottles being shredded into small flakes which are then melted down and extruded to form long, continuous fibers. These fibers are spun into yarns, which can be woven or knitted into new fabrics. While rPET is often associated with recycling plastic bottles and containers discarded by consumers, it can actually be made from both post-industrial and post-consumer materials. However, recycled polyester is rarely made from the fibers of old clothing because it’s quite challenging to recycle old garments that are made from a mix of different materials.Polyester vs. recycled polyester
Virgin polyester fabric is made from new polyester fibers that come from petroleum-based materials. The process involves extracting and refining raw materials into polyester fibers, known for their durability, resistance to shrinking, and versatility in clothing and home textiles.Recycled polyester, or rPET, is made from used plastic products like bottles that are cleaned and processed into polyester fibers. The big difference between the two is the environmental impact: recycled polyester cuts down on the need for new petroleum, saves energy, and keeps plastic waste out of landfills and oceans. Both types of polyester offer similar durability, but recycled polyester is the more eco-friendly choice.
What’s good about recycled polyester?
Recycling plays a crucial role in preventing plastics from being incinerated, ending up in landfills, or becoming marine litter. This is especially important because, according to some estimates, if we continue dumping plastic at our current rate, in 30 years, there could be more plastic than fish in our oceans. Recycled PET (rPET) is just as good as virgin polyester and requires significantly less energy to produce, with CO2 emissions being 50% or even lower compared to regular polyester. Recycling also reduces the demand for crude oil and natural gas, and decreases emissions from incinerators. The potential uses for recycled plastic, particularly rPET, are expanding, with applications ranging from bottles and sheets to clothing and more. Additionally, recycling plastic creates jobs and fosters innovation in the recycling industry. While mechanical recycling has its limits, chemical recycling offers the potential to make plastics infinitely recyclable without any loss in performance, allowing different plastics to be repurposed for a variety of applications, such as textiles, insulation, and furniture.
What’s the downside of recycled polyester?
1. Supply concerns and decline in recycling
Is there really enough recycled polyester to keep up with the growing demand from manufacturers? This is a question that's being closely examined by experts, consumers, and environmental groups alike. The key to verifying the authenticity of recycled polyester claims lies in the ability to track it throughout the entire supply chain.Even though there's plenty of plastic in our environment, actual recycling efforts are on the decline. In the U.S., only 31% of plastic beverage bottles are recycled, with the rest ending up in landfills, littering the environment, or polluting our waterways. A report from the American Chemical Council highlights that the amount of recycled polyester plastic bottles has dropped by 27 million pounds in 2019 compared to the 1.7 billion pounds recycled back in 2017.
2. Complications in Usage
The problem gets even trickier when it comes to how recycled polyester is used. The U.S. doesn’t have enough recycling facilities, leading to a convoluted process where plastic is sold, shipped, melted down, resold, and shipped again—sometimes halfway around the world—before it’s turned into textiles or new bottles. In China, some companies are even engaging in greenwashing by producing bottles just to recycle them into polyester.3. Quality Issues with Recycled Polyester
While polyester bottles can be recycled multiple times, the repeated heating during the process weakens the polymer chains, reducing the intrinsic viscosity (IV) of the polyester, which impacts its strength. Recyclers can use additives to boost the IV, but this can compromise the overall quality of the final product.Is recycled polyester sustainable?
Yes, we consider recycled polyester “more” sustainable if you compare it with virgin polyester or wool. A study by Utrecht University found that using mechanically or chemically recycled polyester fibers can lead to some impressive environmental benefits. Specifically, it reduces energy use by 45% to 85% and cuts the global warming potential by 24% to 76% compared to producing virgin polyester. Plus, using recycled bottles and making products out of them not only keeps these bottles from piling up in landfills or becoming litter but also prevents them from ending up in rivers or oceans.But we don’t see recycled polyester as the most sustainable option. Whether it’s recycled or not, synthetic fibers are a major source of microplastics—tiny particles that are incredibly harmful to the environment. Bethanie Carney Almroth, a biologist and ecotoxicologist at the University of Gothenburg, points out that these microplastics are released from garments throughout their entire life cycle, from production to use, washing, and even disposal. They end up in our waterways, causing significant damage to marine life. In our view, the real solution lies in companies adopting their own closed-loop systems for fiber-to-fiber recycling. This way, every garment produced can be remade into a new one at the end of its life, significantly reducing the reliance on virgin materials.
Is recycled polyester greenwashing?
It really depends on the company’s intentions when it comes to recycled polyester. Recycled polyester can easily become a case of greenwashing if a company is simply using it to boost profits without addressing the larger environmental impact. However, if a company genuinely strives to drive change in the industry and is committed to tackling the environmental issues we face today, then recycled polyester can be part of the solution rather than greenwashing.Is recycled polyester better than cotton?
Yes, we believe that recycled polyester is better than cotton. As we mentioned earlier, even though recycled polyester has its drawbacks, it still helps keep plastic bottles out of landfills and the ocean. On the other hand, conventional cotton isn’t as eco-friendly as it’s often portrayed. It’s one of the thirstiest and most chemical-dependent crops, requiring tons of water and pesticides that damage the environment and pose risks to the people involved in its production. So, while recycled polyester isn’t perfect, we see it as a more sustainable choice compared to conventional cotton.Given that cotton remains the most widely used fabric, it’s tough to avoid it entirely. But if you’re aiming to make a more responsible choice, go for recycled cotton. Recycled or upcycled cotton helps cut down on water and energy use, and it also keeps cotton garments out of landfills.
Is recycled polyester safe?
Recycled polyester, often seen as a more sustainable alternative to virgin polyester, is generally considered safe for use in clothing and other products. However, it’s important to note that while recycled polyester reduces the need for new plastic production and helps keep plastic waste out of landfills and oceans, it isn’t without its environmental concerns. One of the most significant concerns is the release of microplastics during washing. According to a study by Plymouth University in the UK, each cycle of a washing machine can release over 700,000 plastic fibers into the environment. This means that whether garments are made from virgin or recycled polyester, they both contribute to microplastics pollution, which can have harmful effects on marine life and the broader ecosystem. To sum up, yes, recycled polyester is safe to wear, but when you wash it, microplastic fibers can be released, eventually making their way into the ocean—and potentially into the fish that end up on your plate.Where to find recycled polyester fabrics?
There are plenty of companies out there making fabrics from recycled bottles, but SAYA fabrics really stands out to us. SAYA is all about turning recycled bottles and overstock materials into high-quality fabrics. They’ve come up with innovative ways to use four different types of recycled components—like garment offcuts, deadstock fabric, waste yarn, and recycled PET bottles—to create their fibers. Every year, SAYA recycles over 100,000 tons of plastic bottles (that’s about 8 billion bottles!) and transforms them into durable, functional, and recyclable performance fibers.What sets SAYA apart is that they skip the decolorization process, keeping the original color of the fibers. This approach not only saves energy but also cuts down on carbon emissions and extra chemical pollution, making their fabrics even more eco-friendly.
Certifications for recycled material
For recycled polyester to be both high quality and environmentally friendly, it needs to meet specific certification standards. These include the GRS (Global Recycled Standard), which ensures that the fibers meet certain criteria, and the Oeko-Tex 100 Standard. The Global Recycled Standard requires manufacturers to follow strict chemical guidelines during the production process and to adhere to best practices for social and environmental responsibility.Read more: What is GRS? 6 Steps to Get GRS Certified
The Oeko-Tex 100 Standard adds another layer of assurance by ensuring that the fabric used in recycled polyester is free from harmful chemicals. This means that the materials produced must not contain substances that could harm the environment or human health.
Read more: What is Oeko-Tex? Everything You Need To Know
What are other recycled fabrics?
1. Recycled Nylon Fabrics
Recycled nylon is made from materials like manufacturing scraps, old fishing nets, and other discarded nylon products. It's a much more environmentally friendly option compared to virgin nylon, significantly cutting down on CO2 emissions. For instance, Formosa Plastics reports that nylon recycled from marine sources uses 15% less energy and reduces carbon emissions by 49% compared to producing new nylon from petrochemicals. However, the recycling process isn’t without its challenges—it's expensive and requires careful cleaning and handling to ensure the fibers maintain their quality. Despite that, we still consider it as a more sustainable fabric.Where To Find Recycled Nylon Fabrics?
Taiwan’s Formosa Plastics has created various functional products made from environmentally friendly fibers, including antibacterial, cooling, and heat-generating types. These products, made from recycled fishing nets, are as good as those made from fresh raw materials.2. Recycled Cotton Fabrics
Recycled cotton comes from old cotton garments and industrial cotton waste. Recycled cotton offers several environmental benefits, including reducing the demand for new cotton, saving water, and lowering pesticide use. We would choose recycled cotton fabrics over cotton or organic cotton because they are more environmentally friendly and more sustainable.Read more: Sustainable Fabrics: How Eco-Friendly Are They Really?